Thursday, March 4, 2010
The Manila Commute...
Manila is a city that was never planned. It grew organically over time, and what is commonly referred to as “Manila” actually comprises 18 separate cities, with a population of 11.5 million people spread out over an area of 638.55 km2 (246.5 sq mi). With a population density of 18,093 per square kilometer, it is hard to imagine how traffic would not be one of the major challenges facing the city.
And it is.
I always like to imagine a city’s transportation infrastructure is like a human being’s circulatory system. It brings health and life as long as the distribution is good and the veins are wide enough and not clogged, but the more troubled - or impaired – the system, the greater the negative impact on the body.
In Manila’s case, the issues are widespread. To single out a couple:
1. roadway infrastructure is insufficient to deal with traffic
2. public transportation is inefficient and problematic
3. traffic laws are arbitrary, inconsistent, and opaque
4. drivers drive offensively, rather than defensively, and
5. common sense gets lost in the ensuing melee.
Instead of explaining each of these points and boring you to proverbial tears, I will quote from an email I wrote someone a few years back about the experience of being stuck in rush-hour traffic on EDSA (the main “highway” that acts as a circumferential road within Metro Manila):
“Stuck in traffic on EDSA (which is an acronym for Epifanio De Los Santos, a general after whom the street was named), moving at about 1km per hour…when we are moving! I think the roadway on this part of the “highway” is supposed to have five lanes in each direction, but vehicles have squeezed themselves into seven improvised lanes. As a matter of fact, they are so closely packed together that - if I were to open the car window and reach out - I could knock on the window of the car next to me. Maybe ask for a cold drink or something. There is a very modern metro rail that separates the two sides of the road, and every once in a while you see an ultra-packed cart shoot by. I'm jealous...they'll probably get where they are going before i even make it past the big bus that is obstructing the right lane. That brings me to my big question of the day: what is up with the sheer number of commuter buses and Jeepneys (highly-decorative jeep-inspired vehicles that can transport 10-15 people) fighting for passengers and road space? They obstruct traffic, drive like maniacs, seem to randomly stop to let people on or off, and will not hesitate to swerve into your “lane” if the fancy to do so strikes them. You would think that someone would tell them to just stay in one lane and only stop at designated bus stops, but maybe that would spoil the fun?
To add insult to injury, a lot of them are mostly empty. Makes you wonder how they stay in business...
No one seems compelled to use an indicator, which I now strongly suspect is because it might give other drivers an opportunity to foil your plans to change lanes or make a turn. It’s akin to having a “tell” in a poker game. Also, leaving ample space between yourself and the driver in front of you is a futile effort, as this merely serves as an invitation to the car next to you to move into your lane.
As much as I would like to think that I could drive here if necessary, this may be too much chaos even for me. I have absolutely no desire to be one of those stressed-out drivers who yells at other vehicles like a possessed madman, furiously clutching the steering wheel while scowling and hurling incendiary expletives at drivers who can’t hear me anyways. Maybe I need to figure out the metro rail instead.”
That, however, was written before I got used to the traffic, and way before I started driving here.
Now that I do drive here, I have to be honest and admit I actually find it easier to drive in Manila than – for example – Los Angeles. Unlike that of LA (to keep with that example), Manila traffic is very consistent. The fact that drivers never use their indicators and always shift lanes as soon as there is a gap in the (faster-moving) next lane makes those actions part of what is expected. This does not necessarily translate into less annoyance or road rage, but it does somehow desensitize one to crazy driving very rapidly.
And yes, I know these are generalizations…but isn’t that the point?
As you may have surmised, getting from “Point A” to “Point B” in Metro Manila can be a time-consuming undertaking. A simple commute of 15 kilometers can – on a bad day – take an hour and a half, and one should always be aware of traffic when setting appointments or making plans.
While the Metro Rail system greatly cuts down on these commute times, it is not nearly extensive enough as yet to get you everywhere you need to go. If you are comfortable using tricycles (motorcycles with a sidecar) and/or Jeepneys for the first and last leg of your trip, however, it may well significantly cut down on your travel time.
Manila traffic is not for the weak of heart. To get back to my simile comparing Manila’s transportation infrastructure to a circulatory system: Manila has really high cholesterol, and significant clogging of the arteries. Additionally, there is just too much blood in the circulatory system, further complicating things. Manila has long lived with these issues, however, and - given its' built-up tolerance to the aforementioned symptoms – will undoubtedly figure out how to deal with it in its’ own time and way.
And let us end the cliché at that, lest we get carried away even further.
I will end with a suggestion: if you visit Manila, stay in an area within walking distance (or a short commute by taxi) from where you need to be. Driving may seem like a nice adventure, but I can almost guarantee you it’s not worth the effort and frustration unless you plan on being in Manila for an extended period of time. The idea is to enjoy your stay, not to come away frustrated....
And it is.
I always like to imagine a city’s transportation infrastructure is like a human being’s circulatory system. It brings health and life as long as the distribution is good and the veins are wide enough and not clogged, but the more troubled - or impaired – the system, the greater the negative impact on the body.
In Manila’s case, the issues are widespread. To single out a couple:
1. roadway infrastructure is insufficient to deal with traffic
2. public transportation is inefficient and problematic
3. traffic laws are arbitrary, inconsistent, and opaque
4. drivers drive offensively, rather than defensively, and
5. common sense gets lost in the ensuing melee.
Instead of explaining each of these points and boring you to proverbial tears, I will quote from an email I wrote someone a few years back about the experience of being stuck in rush-hour traffic on EDSA (the main “highway” that acts as a circumferential road within Metro Manila):
“Stuck in traffic on EDSA (which is an acronym for Epifanio De Los Santos, a general after whom the street was named), moving at about 1km per hour…when we are moving! I think the roadway on this part of the “highway” is supposed to have five lanes in each direction, but vehicles have squeezed themselves into seven improvised lanes. As a matter of fact, they are so closely packed together that - if I were to open the car window and reach out - I could knock on the window of the car next to me. Maybe ask for a cold drink or something. There is a very modern metro rail that separates the two sides of the road, and every once in a while you see an ultra-packed cart shoot by. I'm jealous...they'll probably get where they are going before i even make it past the big bus that is obstructing the right lane. That brings me to my big question of the day: what is up with the sheer number of commuter buses and Jeepneys (highly-decorative jeep-inspired vehicles that can transport 10-15 people) fighting for passengers and road space? They obstruct traffic, drive like maniacs, seem to randomly stop to let people on or off, and will not hesitate to swerve into your “lane” if the fancy to do so strikes them. You would think that someone would tell them to just stay in one lane and only stop at designated bus stops, but maybe that would spoil the fun?
To add insult to injury, a lot of them are mostly empty. Makes you wonder how they stay in business...
No one seems compelled to use an indicator, which I now strongly suspect is because it might give other drivers an opportunity to foil your plans to change lanes or make a turn. It’s akin to having a “tell” in a poker game. Also, leaving ample space between yourself and the driver in front of you is a futile effort, as this merely serves as an invitation to the car next to you to move into your lane.
As much as I would like to think that I could drive here if necessary, this may be too much chaos even for me. I have absolutely no desire to be one of those stressed-out drivers who yells at other vehicles like a possessed madman, furiously clutching the steering wheel while scowling and hurling incendiary expletives at drivers who can’t hear me anyways. Maybe I need to figure out the metro rail instead.”
That, however, was written before I got used to the traffic, and way before I started driving here.
Now that I do drive here, I have to be honest and admit I actually find it easier to drive in Manila than – for example – Los Angeles. Unlike that of LA (to keep with that example), Manila traffic is very consistent. The fact that drivers never use their indicators and always shift lanes as soon as there is a gap in the (faster-moving) next lane makes those actions part of what is expected. This does not necessarily translate into less annoyance or road rage, but it does somehow desensitize one to crazy driving very rapidly.
And yes, I know these are generalizations…but isn’t that the point?
As you may have surmised, getting from “Point A” to “Point B” in Metro Manila can be a time-consuming undertaking. A simple commute of 15 kilometers can – on a bad day – take an hour and a half, and one should always be aware of traffic when setting appointments or making plans.
While the Metro Rail system greatly cuts down on these commute times, it is not nearly extensive enough as yet to get you everywhere you need to go. If you are comfortable using tricycles (motorcycles with a sidecar) and/or Jeepneys for the first and last leg of your trip, however, it may well significantly cut down on your travel time.
Manila traffic is not for the weak of heart. To get back to my simile comparing Manila’s transportation infrastructure to a circulatory system: Manila has really high cholesterol, and significant clogging of the arteries. Additionally, there is just too much blood in the circulatory system, further complicating things. Manila has long lived with these issues, however, and - given its' built-up tolerance to the aforementioned symptoms – will undoubtedly figure out how to deal with it in its’ own time and way.
And let us end the cliché at that, lest we get carried away even further.
I will end with a suggestion: if you visit Manila, stay in an area within walking distance (or a short commute by taxi) from where you need to be. Driving may seem like a nice adventure, but I can almost guarantee you it’s not worth the effort and frustration unless you plan on being in Manila for an extended period of time. The idea is to enjoy your stay, not to come away frustrated....
Thursday, February 25, 2010
Wednesday, February 24, 2010
Manila Redux
Let's get this out of the way:
Manila is a big, stinking, huffing, puffing, monolith of a city. Traffic is awful, the shanties are depressing beyond belief, and the majority of buildings are gray and drab. The local population seems compelled to dump trash anywhere and everywhere, the rivers running through the city smell foul on a good day and god-awful on a bad day, and the beggars and street urchins crowd around your car at stoplights, holding up a hand for alms.
And yet Manila isn't just yet another third world city. With a population of 11.5 million, Metro Manila has almost the same population as Paris and Beijing. Moreover, it is in the same league as Mexico City, Buenos Aires and Rio De Janeiro. Its' population is actually twice as large as Madrid's, and 30% larger than London's.
And which of those Mega Cities doesn't have serious issues?
I am not an apologist, mind you. In many ways, it takes a special type to truly love Manila. Even the locals of some financial means make sure to get out of town every chance they get. As soon as it's a holiday, traffic snarls to a dead stand-still from people trying to go to prettier, less-crowded, less polluted towns: Tagaytay, Baguio, Clark. Or they take a plane to Boracay, Cebu, Bohol, etc etc etc. It raises the question: if even the locals are eager to get out, why would anyone else want to go there?
That said, one has to always remind oneself that Metro Manila is a huge metropolitan area in a third-world country. It is a microcosm of all that is good and bad, but as a matter of fact has quite a lot to offer when compared to most other third-world cities. Not only does it have access to every modern amenity and endless entertainment options, but it is also blessed with a friendly population. Life here is reasobaly affordable (if you have some money), and you are relatively close to all of Asia and the Pacific.
A lot of people refer to the Philippines as "Asia Light", "Asia 101", or "Asia for Beginners," and there may well be something to that. The Philippines is the most "Western" of the Asian countries, in part because it was controlled by the U.S. for much of the 20th century's first half. Today, that American influence is still highly palpable: the Filipinos are almost all capable of speaking at least some English, and their world view is surprisingly Americentric. Some of my expat friends have told me stories of big multinational companies that actually station their Asia-bound expats in the Philippines for a year or two before being shipped elsewhere in the region, because the culture shock is less.
Manila is a big, stinking, huffing, puffing, monolith of a city. Traffic is awful, the shanties are depressing beyond belief, and the majority of buildings are gray and drab. The local population seems compelled to dump trash anywhere and everywhere, the rivers running through the city smell foul on a good day and god-awful on a bad day, and the beggars and street urchins crowd around your car at stoplights, holding up a hand for alms.
And yet Manila isn't just yet another third world city. With a population of 11.5 million, Metro Manila has almost the same population as Paris and Beijing. Moreover, it is in the same league as Mexico City, Buenos Aires and Rio De Janeiro. Its' population is actually twice as large as Madrid's, and 30% larger than London's.
And which of those Mega Cities doesn't have serious issues?
I am not an apologist, mind you. In many ways, it takes a special type to truly love Manila. Even the locals of some financial means make sure to get out of town every chance they get. As soon as it's a holiday, traffic snarls to a dead stand-still from people trying to go to prettier, less-crowded, less polluted towns: Tagaytay, Baguio, Clark. Or they take a plane to Boracay, Cebu, Bohol, etc etc etc. It raises the question: if even the locals are eager to get out, why would anyone else want to go there?
That said, one has to always remind oneself that Metro Manila is a huge metropolitan area in a third-world country. It is a microcosm of all that is good and bad, but as a matter of fact has quite a lot to offer when compared to most other third-world cities. Not only does it have access to every modern amenity and endless entertainment options, but it is also blessed with a friendly population. Life here is reasobaly affordable (if you have some money), and you are relatively close to all of Asia and the Pacific.
A lot of people refer to the Philippines as "Asia Light", "Asia 101", or "Asia for Beginners," and there may well be something to that. The Philippines is the most "Western" of the Asian countries, in part because it was controlled by the U.S. for much of the 20th century's first half. Today, that American influence is still highly palpable: the Filipinos are almost all capable of speaking at least some English, and their world view is surprisingly Americentric. Some of my expat friends have told me stories of big multinational companies that actually station their Asia-bound expats in the Philippines for a year or two before being shipped elsewhere in the region, because the culture shock is less.
I haven't had that confirmed, but I can imagine it being true.
More than anything, however, the Philippines and Manila remind me of Mexico and Mexico City, respectively. It was only after I came to this conclusion - and mentioned it to someone - that it was explained to me why that actually makes a lot of sense. As is widely known, the Philippines was a Spanish Colony for 333 years, from 1565 until 1898. What many people don't realize, however, is that the Spanish actually governed the Philippines via Mexico. So in many ways, the influence is more Mexican than Spanish.
When you walk in Intramuros, you can still feel this influence. The experience is more like walking in an old Mexican colonial town than one that is Spanish. A majority of the people here in the Philippines have Spanish surnames, and the local language still contains many snippets of Spanish. The local cuisine is strongly influenced by Spanish/Mexican cooking, and its' brand of Catholicism (and it is important to note that the Philippines is the third-largest Catholic nation in the world after Brazil and Mexico) is more reminiscent of the Mexican variety than that of Spain or Rome.
More than anything, however, the Philippines and Manila remind me of Mexico and Mexico City, respectively. It was only after I came to this conclusion - and mentioned it to someone - that it was explained to me why that actually makes a lot of sense. As is widely known, the Philippines was a Spanish Colony for 333 years, from 1565 until 1898. What many people don't realize, however, is that the Spanish actually governed the Philippines via Mexico. So in many ways, the influence is more Mexican than Spanish.
When you walk in Intramuros, you can still feel this influence. The experience is more like walking in an old Mexican colonial town than one that is Spanish. A majority of the people here in the Philippines have Spanish surnames, and the local language still contains many snippets of Spanish. The local cuisine is strongly influenced by Spanish/Mexican cooking, and its' brand of Catholicism (and it is important to note that the Philippines is the third-largest Catholic nation in the world after Brazil and Mexico) is more reminiscent of the Mexican variety than that of Spain or Rome.
All that having been said: don't be under the illusion that this place is paradise. It's not. No city as big as Manila is. But that is not to say that it isn't worth the effort of getting to know the place, because - despite all the negatives - there is a tremendous amount of culture, history and highly enjoyable tourist stuff to more than make up for the negatives.
So what would I recommend newcomers see during a visit Manila, to help generate a positive impression? I think one has to start with this list:
- Intramuros - "Intramuros" is Spanish for "inside walls", and it is the old spanish colonial city out of which Manila has grown. Many of the old buildings - in traditional Spanish design - are still standing, and the government tries to ensure as much of the old town as possible survives in its' original state. The old city walls are still present, but the moat that used to surround the fortress has been filled in and now houses a golf course. Being in this authentic Spanish colonial town while not leaving Asia is rare treat, and while I can think of 100 ways in which they could improve the experience (like not allowing the construction of modern-looking buildings inside the city walls), Intramuros is both unique and worthwhile. While there, check out the Manila Cathedral, Fort Santiago and - if it happens to be your sport - try to catch a round of golf in Club Intramuros.
- Makati - The business district, but also a surprisingly clean, organized section of the city. By far the most tourist-friendly section of town, there are many entertainment options both during the day and at night If the Philippines is "Asia Light", then Makati is "Philippines Light"...and while some might complain that it lacks the grittiness and authenticity one would encounter in more characteristic neighborhoods like - for instance - Tondo or Quiapo, I strongly believe that there is enough grittiness in these Mega Cities for people to get a good enough taste of it without having to mount an expedition. Makati is home to hotels, malls, skyscrapers, museums, the stock exchange, quaint streets lined with mature trees, and a delectable Sunday market specializing in food (Salcedo Market - check it out!). Whole sections of Makati have elevated pedestrian walkways, designed to encourage walking while at the same time alleviating road traffic, and they connect Malls, office buildings, hotels, residential towers and covered parking structures. Make sure to visit Greenbelt (a luxury mall built around a nice park with mature trees), the Ayala Museum (a world-class art and history museum located inside Greenbelt), and the super-exclusive Manila Polo club (if you can convince a member to invite you). Have lunch in the Peninsula Hotel Manila, with its' magnificent lobby and elegant old-world ambiance.
- Tagaytay - Although technically speaking outside Metro Manila (and a good hour and a half to two hour drive away, as a matter of fact), no visit to Manila is complete without a visit to this "weekend-getaway" town located in the mountains outside Manila. Tagaytay is actually a town located on the ridge of a volcano, overlooking the lake that has filled the crater. To complicate the natural wonder even further, the lake contains several islands, one of which is a volcano in its' own right. So to be precise, it is a volcano in a lake in a volcano...quite unique, and ridiculously scenic to boot! Over the years, an endless amount of restaurants, hotels and other amenities have sprung up, many of which overlook the lake. Because the temperature tends to be cooler than in Manila, it makes for a wonderfully relaxing terrace-lounging opportunity. If you want to do more than lounge on a terrace and enjoy the breathtaking views, make sure to visit Antonio's Restaurant. Although it doesn't overlook the lake, it combines a delightful garden with some of the best food I've ever had. Finally, if you can convince a guest to take you, try and see Tagaytay Highlands. It is a resort built into the mountain side, and its' Austrian-style chalet condos, mission-style mansions and Filipino-inspired golf clubhouse are sights to behold.
Manila is not what it seems. It isn't an obviously attractive city, and you have to dig a little bit to discover its' charms and beauty. When you do, however, it is more than worth the effort.
Monday, February 22, 2010
The Bagoong Test
Ahhhh...let me sing the praises of Filipino cuisine. Has there ever been a tastier, more indulgent, more creative kitchen?
Has there ever been one that is unhealthier, for that matter?
Binagoongan, Crispy Pata, Paksiw, Lechon Kawali, Kare-Kare, Adobo, Sinigang...the list goes on and on and on. And yes, most of them should come with a coupon for a free sample of Lipitor.
But I digress.
My wife's "does this relationship have real potential" test for me was food related: I now jokingly refer to it as the Bagoong (pronounced "Bah-Goh-Ong") Test. We were visiting a friend of hers in the US, and she saw a jar of Bagoong in the fridge. She got all excited, and wanted me to try it.
Now let me interject here to give full disclosure: I love food, and my theory on food is "try anything at least once". At some point in the future I will detail some of the crazier dishes, but let me avoid that segue for now.
Back to the Bagoong Test.
So she opens the jar, and I am surprised by an extraordinarily pungent and strong fish/shrimp/ocean pier scent. The contents of the jar kind of looked like mashed black caviar with a dark copper hue, but had a scent which was more akin to Sardines on steroids. I have heard the smell described as "decomposing mummy shrimp" or "seafood that was buried for twelve days and then dug up", but I thought it smelled kind of enticing. Go figure.
My mouth was watering. I have no idea what that says about me, but I was absolutely sold.
Now...to describe the taste (and I have since found out that there are actually many varieties of Bagoong), one has to know what Bagoong is. I quote from Wikipedia: "Bagoong is a Filipino term for shrimp or fish paste. These pastes have strong odors which may be offensive to those unaccustomed to them"
I guess in western-cuisine terms, the closest thing to it would be anchovy paste.
And I happen to LOVE anchovies!
But that does it no justice at all. That description and comparison are akin to saying the Eiffel Tower is "a metal structure in Paris". Or describing a banana as "yellow."
So what does it taste like?
Salty and fishy. And what the Japanese call "Umami". If you want me to be more abstract about it, I would say it tastes "lush, earthy, elemental and quite well rounded on the bottom of the flavor spectrum. No real acidity or spiky flavors to speak of, but a really nice, rich, full balance on the other end of the scale."
Does that make any sense at all?
Bagoong is like wine: there is a whole bouquet of flavors hiding underneath the obvious saltiness and fishiness, which differs from type to type and brand to brand. True pinoys (the term Filipinos use for themselves) can have very defined preferences where their Bagoong is concerned, and there are still many who actually make their own Bagoong.
I would dare say that Bagoong is the secret ingredient in filipino food. The closest approximation I can think of is perhaps the use of chili peppers in Latin America, or Garlic: it can be used as either a flavor enhancer, or as a primary ingredient. Many of the poorest Filipinos eat rice with Bagoong as their mainstay, and one could argue that it is at least as big a part of Filipino Cultural Identity as the national hero Jose Rizal.
Other countries have their own versions. Indonesia has "Trassie", and most countries in Asia have a variation on the theme. I think the Filipino version is far superior, however, as it seems to be more...nuanced? I always joke Filipinos that - for me - there are two things that can make almost any dish taste infinitely better: Garlic and Bagoong! They laugh, assuming that I am joking.
I'm not.
As for the "Bagoong Test": I only found out about that much later. Fact is I love it, so it proved to be a non-issue. And despite perhaps knowing better, I'd like to think that love could (and should) conquer a distaste for a specific food. My wife's explanation was this: "I think if we are going to get married, we have to like the same food...and Bagoong is an integral part of Filipino food...if you had been someone who turned out to be nauseated at the smell of Bagoong, we would have had a problem!"
And she was right.
Eight years and 30 pounds later, I have come to consider the Filipino kitchen one of my favorites. If you are hyper-aware of your health or easily revolted, then go elsewhere, because Filipino cooking is full of fat, sodium, ornery animal parts and ingredients the western world would rainse eyebrows at.
But it sure does taste good.
And...just wait until I explain "Aligue!"
Has there ever been one that is unhealthier, for that matter?
Binagoongan, Crispy Pata, Paksiw, Lechon Kawali, Kare-Kare, Adobo, Sinigang...the list goes on and on and on. And yes, most of them should come with a coupon for a free sample of Lipitor.
But I digress.
My wife's "does this relationship have real potential" test for me was food related: I now jokingly refer to it as the Bagoong (pronounced "Bah-Goh-Ong") Test. We were visiting a friend of hers in the US, and she saw a jar of Bagoong in the fridge. She got all excited, and wanted me to try it.
Now let me interject here to give full disclosure: I love food, and my theory on food is "try anything at least once". At some point in the future I will detail some of the crazier dishes, but let me avoid that segue for now.
Back to the Bagoong Test.
So she opens the jar, and I am surprised by an extraordinarily pungent and strong fish/shrimp/ocean pier scent. The contents of the jar kind of looked like mashed black caviar with a dark copper hue, but had a scent which was more akin to Sardines on steroids. I have heard the smell described as "decomposing mummy shrimp" or "seafood that was buried for twelve days and then dug up", but I thought it smelled kind of enticing. Go figure.
My mouth was watering. I have no idea what that says about me, but I was absolutely sold.
Now...to describe the taste (and I have since found out that there are actually many varieties of Bagoong), one has to know what Bagoong is. I quote from Wikipedia: "Bagoong is a Filipino term for shrimp or fish paste. These pastes have strong odors which may be offensive to those unaccustomed to them"
I guess in western-cuisine terms, the closest thing to it would be anchovy paste.
And I happen to LOVE anchovies!
But that does it no justice at all. That description and comparison are akin to saying the Eiffel Tower is "a metal structure in Paris". Or describing a banana as "yellow."
So what does it taste like?
Salty and fishy. And what the Japanese call "Umami". If you want me to be more abstract about it, I would say it tastes "lush, earthy, elemental and quite well rounded on the bottom of the flavor spectrum. No real acidity or spiky flavors to speak of, but a really nice, rich, full balance on the other end of the scale."
Does that make any sense at all?
Bagoong is like wine: there is a whole bouquet of flavors hiding underneath the obvious saltiness and fishiness, which differs from type to type and brand to brand. True pinoys (the term Filipinos use for themselves) can have very defined preferences where their Bagoong is concerned, and there are still many who actually make their own Bagoong.
I would dare say that Bagoong is the secret ingredient in filipino food. The closest approximation I can think of is perhaps the use of chili peppers in Latin America, or Garlic: it can be used as either a flavor enhancer, or as a primary ingredient. Many of the poorest Filipinos eat rice with Bagoong as their mainstay, and one could argue that it is at least as big a part of Filipino Cultural Identity as the national hero Jose Rizal.
Other countries have their own versions. Indonesia has "Trassie", and most countries in Asia have a variation on the theme. I think the Filipino version is far superior, however, as it seems to be more...nuanced? I always joke Filipinos that - for me - there are two things that can make almost any dish taste infinitely better: Garlic and Bagoong! They laugh, assuming that I am joking.
I'm not.
As for the "Bagoong Test": I only found out about that much later. Fact is I love it, so it proved to be a non-issue. And despite perhaps knowing better, I'd like to think that love could (and should) conquer a distaste for a specific food. My wife's explanation was this: "I think if we are going to get married, we have to like the same food...and Bagoong is an integral part of Filipino food...if you had been someone who turned out to be nauseated at the smell of Bagoong, we would have had a problem!"
And she was right.
Eight years and 30 pounds later, I have come to consider the Filipino kitchen one of my favorites. If you are hyper-aware of your health or easily revolted, then go elsewhere, because Filipino cooking is full of fat, sodium, ornery animal parts and ingredients the western world would rainse eyebrows at.
But it sure does taste good.
And...just wait until I explain "Aligue!"
Sunday, February 21, 2010
In The Beginning...
When I first visited Manila in 2002, I had no idea what to expect. I was in the midst of a four-year long-distance relationship with my now-wife, and after an 18 hour journey landed on Ninoy Aquino International Airport. All I really knew about the Philippines could be summed up pretty quickly:
Since then, I have been compulsively coming back. Every trip increased my appreciation for the country, and respect for its' culture and inhabitants.
Is it third world? Yes. But so what?
Is Manila a big, dirty, chaotic city? Yep. For sure.
But the people are the friendliest, Metro Manila has all the conveniences you can ask for (including world-class restaurants, bookstores, museums, supermarkets, malls, cinemas, theaters and stores), and - although I bet this goes against everything you've heard about the place - it is actually quite safe as long as you use common sense.
Oh...and did I mention the country itself is breathtakingly stunning?
My intent is to give you the back of my mind...no matter if it's the good, the bad or the ugly. In the process, I hope to give a feel for the real Philippines...as I experience them.
Enjoy.
- Imelda's Shoes
- Popular Revolution
- Erupting Volcanoes
- Sinking Ferries, and
- Muslim Terrorists
Since then, I have been compulsively coming back. Every trip increased my appreciation for the country, and respect for its' culture and inhabitants.
Is it third world? Yes. But so what?
Is Manila a big, dirty, chaotic city? Yep. For sure.
But the people are the friendliest, Metro Manila has all the conveniences you can ask for (including world-class restaurants, bookstores, museums, supermarkets, malls, cinemas, theaters and stores), and - although I bet this goes against everything you've heard about the place - it is actually quite safe as long as you use common sense.
Oh...and did I mention the country itself is breathtakingly stunning?
My intent is to give you the back of my mind...no matter if it's the good, the bad or the ugly. In the process, I hope to give a feel for the real Philippines...as I experience them.
Enjoy.
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