The Manila Commute...

Manila is a city that was never planned. It grew organically over time, and what is commonly referred to as “Manila” actually comprises 18 separate cities, with a population of 11.5 million people spread out over an area of 638.55 km2 (246.5 sq mi). With a population density of 18,093 per square kilometer, it is hard to imagine how traffic would not be one of the major challenges facing the city.

And it is.

I always like to imagine a city’s transportation infrastructure is like a human being’s circulatory system. It brings health and life as long as the distribution is good and the veins are wide enough and not clogged, but the more troubled - or impaired – the system, the greater the negative impact on the body.

In Manila’s case, the issues are widespread. To single out a couple:

    1. roadway infrastructure is insufficient to deal with traffic
    2. public transportation is inefficient and problematic
    3. traffic laws are arbitrary, inconsistent, and opaque
    4. drivers drive offensively, rather than defensively, and
    5. common sense gets lost in the ensuing melee.

Instead of explaining each of these points and boring you to proverbial tears, I will quote from an email I wrote someone a few years back about the experience of being stuck in rush-hour traffic on EDSA (the main “highway” that acts as a circumferential road within Metro Manila):

“Stuck in traffic on EDSA (which is an acronym for Epifanio De Los Santos, a general after whom the street was named), moving at about 1km per hour…when we are moving! I think the roadway on this part of the “highway” is supposed to have five lanes in each direction, but vehicles have squeezed themselves into seven improvised lanes. As a matter of fact, they are so closely packed together that - if I were to open the car window and reach out - I could knock on the window of the car next to me. Maybe ask for a cold drink or something. There is a very modern metro rail that separates the two sides of the road, and every once in a while you see an ultra-packed cart shoot by. I'm jealous...they'll probably get where they are going before i even make it past the big bus that is obstructing the right lane. That brings me to my big question of the day: what is up with the sheer number of commuter buses and Jeepneys (highly-decorative jeep-inspired vehicles that can transport 10-15 people) fighting for passengers and road space? They obstruct traffic, drive like maniacs, seem to randomly stop to let people on or off, and will not hesitate to swerve into your “lane” if the fancy to do so strikes them. You would think that someone would tell them to just stay in one lane and only stop at designated bus stops, but maybe that would spoil the fun?

To add insult to injury, a lot of them are mostly empty.  Makes you wonder how they stay in business...

No one seems compelled to use an indicator, which I now strongly suspect is because it might give other drivers an opportunity to foil your plans to change lanes or make a turn. It’s akin to having a “tell” in a poker game. Also, leaving ample space between yourself and the driver in front of you is a futile effort, as this merely serves as an invitation to the car next to you to move into your lane.

As much as I would like to think that I could drive here if necessary, this may be too much chaos even for me. I have absolutely no desire to be one of those stressed-out drivers who yells at other vehicles like a possessed madman, furiously clutching the steering wheel while scowling and hurling incendiary expletives at drivers who can’t hear me anyways. Maybe I need to figure out the metro rail instead.”

That, however, was written before I got used to the traffic, and way before I started driving here.

Now that I do drive here, I have to be honest and admit I actually find it easier to drive in Manila than – for example – Los Angeles. Unlike that of LA (to keep with that example), Manila traffic is very consistent. The fact that drivers never use their indicators and always shift lanes as soon as there is a gap in the (faster-moving) next lane makes those actions part of what is expected. This does not necessarily translate into less annoyance or road rage, but it does somehow desensitize one to crazy driving very rapidly.

And yes, I know these are generalizations…but isn’t that the point?

As you may have surmised, getting from “Point A” to “Point B” in Metro Manila can be a time-consuming undertaking. A simple commute of 15 kilometers can – on a bad day – take an hour and a half, and one should always be aware of traffic when setting appointments or making plans.

While the Metro Rail system greatly cuts down on these commute times, it is not nearly extensive enough as yet to get you everywhere you need to go. If you are comfortable using tricycles (motorcycles with a sidecar) and/or Jeepneys for the first and last leg of your trip, however, it may well significantly cut down on your travel time.

Manila traffic is not for the weak of heart. To get back to my simile comparing Manila’s transportation infrastructure to a circulatory system: Manila has really high cholesterol, and significant clogging of the arteries. Additionally, there is just too much blood in the circulatory system, further complicating things. Manila has long lived with these issues, however, and - given its' built-up tolerance to the aforementioned symptoms – will undoubtedly figure out how to deal with it in its’ own time and way.

And let us end the cliché at that, lest we get carried away even further.

I will end with a suggestion: if you visit Manila, stay in an area within walking distance (or a short commute by taxi) from where you need to be. Driving may seem like a nice adventure, but I can almost guarantee you it’s not worth the effort and frustration unless you plan on being in Manila for an extended period of time. The idea is to enjoy your stay, not to come away frustrated....